El Salvador - Trans Salvador

In El Salvador, we truly discovered a world we hadn’t imagined. How could such a small country offer so many different landscapes? When designing this route, the most important thing for us was to define the points of interest we absolutely wanted to reach. El Salvador is especially known for its volcanoes, lagoons, and beaches, and each brought its own unique atmosphere to the ride.

To make the journey more adventurous, we mostly stuck to dirt roads, avoiding the Pan-American Highway to experience the Salvadoran countryside. Rolling past small villages, coffee plantations, and lush green hills, we felt immersed in the daily rhythm of local life. In fact, we only crossed the highway once, and that was enough to promise ourselves never to ride on it again.

El Salvador has long been seen as one of the most dangerous countries in the Americas, which explains why travelers usually pass through in just a few days. Today, security has improved, although the political situation remains complex. The president has implemented an authoritarian policy to end gang wars, which has brought safety back to the streets. The cost of this peace, however, raises obvious human rights concerns. Our encounters with locals showed us that reality is not black and white. There is some good in this policy, but also a significant shadow.

For us, cycling through the country revealed a joyful, free, and serene side. People celebrate, stroll through town even late at night, and gather to eat pupusas morning and evening. Each day on the bike offered new discoveries: quiet lagoons reflecting volcanoes, the smell of fresh coffee plantations, and the rhythm of local markets alive with chatter and colour. El Salvador surprised us at every turn, and the variety of landscapes, people, and experiences made every pedal stroke unforgettable.

The Trans Salvador route is a truly challenging journey, offering long hours of pushing your bike through landscapes that feel almost magical. Steep climbs test your endurance, and technical descents demand focus and care. But this is exactly what makes the route special: it slows you down, forcing you to be fully present, to notice the shifting light over volcanoes, the sounds of birds in the forests, and the smiles of people in the villages you pass. Every hill, every trail, and every turn becomes an invitation to savor the moment, making the effort of the ride all the more rewarding.

And, of course, it would be impossible to end this description without mentioning what became the true highlight of our days: the hunt for pupusas. These stuffed corn tortillas are El Salvador’s iconic dish, and we quickly realized just how much variety and creativity exists. From cheese and beans to more adventurous fillings like loroco or squash blossoms, each town and even each small pupusería offered something unique. You’ll find them everywhere, at all price points, and served with the warmth and friendliness of the local people. Chasing down the best pupusas became more than just a meal; it became a way to connect with the culture, savuor the flavours, and celebrate the simple joys of life on the road.

This route is mostly rideable, but as you approach each volcano, the paths turn into hike-a-bike sections. How challenging these feel depends on your experience pushing a loaded bike, but none are insurmountable. Take your time, enjoy the changing landscapes, and use these sections as a chance to slow down and appreciate the surroundings.

The route also includes a few river and ocean crossings, all marked on the GPX file. They can be avoided by sticking to main roads, but tackling them adds a little adventure. Even during the rainy season, we managed to cross them all safely. Be sure to check conditions and tides when approaching ocean crossings.

The climbs are challenging, but they don’t require advanced mountain biking skills. Some descents (for example, day 8 down to the coast) are technical, though they are short and manageable. Remember to pace yourself on steep sections, and always take extra care when the trails are wet or muddy.

Overall, the mix of rideable stretches, hike-a-bike climbs, and occasional crossings makes this route varied and engaging. It’s a journey that rewards patience, careful planning, and an openness to adventure.